I am not a big fan of the wet. When I was a small child and easy to chill with a mist, I decided that water was not my friend for recreation. So when I tell people that surfing looks like a great idea, they look at me like I have forgotten that it involves a great deal of the wet (and salty). It is a kind of "are you forgetting something or are you just stupid" look. But I think what I really mean is I like the movies about surfing. So far my favorites have been The Endless Summer and Big Wednesday, which might be the obvious choices but, if you are going to be introduced to a topic, the basics are the best place to start.
Last night I saw "Step into Liquid" directed by Dana Brown, son of Bruce Brown of Endless Summer. Wow, what is possible today with photography! Some of the most enchanting shots were inside the wave. It reminded me of lead crystal, cut into scalloped shapes. The blue of the water and sky as the fore and back ground and makes the surfer appear to be flying. It is a dazzling thing to watch.